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Catching Codes: The Institutionalization of Self-Regulation in the Global Apparel Industry

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Abstract:

During the 1990s, movements for improved labor standards in the global apparel industry pressured large, brand-name firms to adopt better protections for workers in outsourced production. By mapping adoption of such codes of conduct and monitoring arrangements, I evaluate whether these practices have become institutionalized as a part of industry practice. Drawing on an original dataset of companies from around the world, I show that self-regulation has spread beyond targeted firms and has therefore become institutionalized at a subset of firms. Factors such as field position drive the adoption of self-regulation, even in the absence of targeting, as challenger firms mimic the practices of incumbents. National political cultures may also explain the high rates of adoption in countries with long-standing traditions of protecting workers’ rights. These findings support institutionalist perspectives on organizational change, particularly the idea that mimetic isomorphism drives adoption of legitimating practices. Further, the results are an endorsement of labor activists’ strategy of targeting large, branded companies, as such campaigns have had ramifications far beyond these lead firms.

Most Common Document Word Stems:

firm (125), self (69), regul (69), adopt (68), target (63), self-regul (61), brand (39), industri (38), labor (37), practic (30), compani (25), code (22), standard (22), field (21), worker (21), nation (21), institution (20), wetterberg (20), apparel (20), global (18), social (18),

Author's Keywords:

organizations, isomorphism, apparel
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Name: American Sociological Association
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MLA Citation:

Wetterberg, Anna. "Catching Codes: The Institutionalization of Self-Regulation in the Global Apparel Industry" Paper presented at the annual meeting of the American Sociological Association, Montreal Convention Center, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, Aug 11, 2006 <Not Available>. 2009-05-24 <http://www.allacademic.com/meta/p103800_index.html>

APA Citation:

Wetterberg, A. M. , 2006-08-11 "Catching Codes: The Institutionalization of Self-Regulation in the Global Apparel Industry" Paper presented at the annual meeting of the American Sociological Association, Montreal Convention Center, Montreal, Quebec, Canada Online <PDF>. 2009-05-24 from http://www.allacademic.com/meta/p103800_index.html

Publication Type: Conference Paper/Unpublished Manuscript
Abstract: During the 1990s, movements for improved labor standards in the global apparel industry pressured large, brand-name firms to adopt better protections for workers in outsourced production. By mapping adoption of such codes of conduct and monitoring arrangements, I evaluate whether these practices have become institutionalized as a part of industry practice. Drawing on an original dataset of companies from around the world, I show that self-regulation has spread beyond targeted firms and has therefore become institutionalized at a subset of firms. Factors such as field position drive the adoption of self-regulation, even in the absence of targeting, as challenger firms mimic the practices of incumbents. National political cultures may also explain the high rates of adoption in countries with long-standing traditions of protecting workers’ rights. These findings support institutionalist perspectives on organizational change, particularly the idea that mimetic isomorphism drives adoption of legitimating practices. Further, the results are an endorsement of labor activists’ strategy of targeting large, branded companies, as such campaigns have had ramifications far beyond these lead firms.

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Document Type: PDF
Page count: 19
Word count: 5493
Text sample:
Catching Codes: The Institutionalization of Self-Regulation in the Global Apparel Industry Anna Wetterberg University of California Berkeley I. INTRODUCTION The apparel industry provides a snapshot of the disquieting inequities of global capitalism – wealthy consumers in the Global North are faced with a limitless range of clothing designed to reflect every nuance of their needs and tastes crafted by impoverished workers in the Global South who have little choice about any facet of the conditions under which they produce.
Quarterly:4-9. SIF Research Industry Program. 2003. "2003 Report on Socially Responsible Investment Trends in the U.S." Washington DC: Social Investment Forum. Simon H.A. 1961. Administrative Behavior. New York: Free Press. —. 1962. "On the concept of organizational goal." Administrative Science Quarterly:1- 21. Weir Margaret. 1992. "Ideas and the Politics of Bounded Innovation." in Structuring Politics: Historical Institutionalism in Comparative Analysis edited by Sven Wetterberg 18 Steinmo Kathleen Thelen and Frank Longstreth. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Wetterberg 19


Similar Titles:
Concept vs. Content: The Institutionalization of Labor Self-Regulation in the Global Apparel Industry

Codes, Culture, and Coercion: Explaining Adoption of Labor Self-regulation in the Global Apparel Industry


 
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